The 20th century was not exactly the most exciting period for men's fashion. Following centuries of decadence in high fashion that involved as many frills, heels and makeup as the women wore, men's fashion in the 20th century took on a sombre, almost puritanical form that conformed to the strict, narrow heterosexual definitions of the time. Men were labourers and soldiers, serious politicians and stern business men, and frivolities such as fashion were reserved only for women.
In the past ten years the male fashion world has opened itself up to a more playful time. Men are increasingly "allowed" to care about what they wear, and are encouraged to express their individuality through clothing past their teenage rebellion years, and into their mature years. The mainstreaming of homosexual culture, which has stereotypically encapsulated anything aesthetically-minded (fashion, art, design), has also helped to loosen the top button of the men's fashion world.
Men's fashion has always been around, but with the lauding of the emergent "metrosexual man", men are now able to express themselves and groom themselves in ways that were never before acceptable by the old hetero vanguard. Wildly popular makeover shows such as "What Not to Wear" and "Queer Eye for the Straight Guy" are showing men that it is okay to look after yourself, care about how you look, and more importantly, they are giving men tips on how to do it in aggressive, but transformational, ways.
Now that men's fashion has had a chance to catch up, the bar is rising further. Sure you know how to dress, but the question becomes, can you accessorize? In doing an informal poll of 11 girlfriends in their mid-twenties to early thirties, 7 of them listed "style" as one of the first 3 things they notice about a guy, with three of them indicating shoes specifically.
Quality
The first priority for men in their shoes has always been a good fit. Quality shoes should fit comfortably the first time you wear them and will last you for several years if cared for properly. Look for shoes that are made with high-end leather uppers. Insoles should be made of leather also, or a breathable synthetic material so that your foot sweat doesn't turn your feet into eye-watering stink-bombs. Much like a suit, the quality of the materials that your shoes are made with will made a big difference in all facets: comfort, durability and style.
Styles
There used to be a wide chasm between a casual shoe and a professional or dress shoe in men's foot apparel. That line is starting to blur as business attire itself becomes more casual. When you begin to diversify your wardrobe beyond a blue suit, a brown suit and a black suit, and even (gasp) drop the tie, you have to adjust your footwear to your style. Here is a rundown of the basic styles of men's footwear:
Oxford/lace-up: This is the classic men's business and dress shoe. It comes in several variations including the cap toe, wing tip (a "Brogue" wing tip is one with patterned holes punched in the tip), split or bicycle toe, or moc toe. All of these variations basically refer to the stitch pattern on the shoe. The Oxford is your basic lace-up shoe with the separated heel. This is a classic style, but should be reserved for the office and formal affairs.
Boots: There are several style of men's boots that can be worn in both business and casual settings. Best among these are slip on half boots. These boots often have the elastic panel on each side of the boot. I have rarely, if ever, seen a man pull off a laced boot in anything other than a very casual setting.
Slip-on: The slip-on shoe line has also expanded past the dismal penny loafers, mesh and (shudder) Boat shoes of the past. For dressier slip-ons, there are the monk strap, which come in both shoe and boot styles (and even sandal styles) and basically consist of a strap and buckle, usually falling to the outside of the foot. There is a broad range of shoes in the "loafer" category. Unless you are cutting edge, try to avoid loafers with tassels, heavy embroidery, and loafers made out of suede.
Athletic shoes: Traditionally, athletic shoes should stay in the gym, but designers are coming out with different lines of athletic shoes that can be worn as a casual shoe. Again, as long as this matches your personal style. If you are alternative, a bowling shoe will work; if you are into urban streetwear, a bright white pair of adidas may match your look. These are very specific images that you portaying, and you can usually figure out your personal taste within them.
Colour
You should have at least two pair of black shoes for the office, and one formal pair. Most dudes think that shoes (other than sneakers) come in brown and black. This is just not true. In fact, brown shoes are actually quite a limiting colour: they really only go with jeans or khakis. Instead of a brown shoe, live a little and go for an ox-blood or cognac colour. You should have at least two pair of semi-casual shoes that are not black. (hiking boots and athletic shoes don't count).
Dos and Don'ts
Always match your belt to your shoes. Black belt, black shoes; ox-blood shoes, ox-blood belt
Care for your dress shoes by using a shoe horn to put them on (this saves the heel from deteriorating), polish them and if they are soft leather, treat them with cream to keep them soft.
Always spray your shoes with protectant before you wear them outside.
Your socks should match your shoes. A personal preference shared by many girlfriends: never wear white socks outside the gym, and light grey socks can often just look like dirty white socks.
If the soles of your good shoes are breaking down, take them to a cobbler. Quality shoes in a classic style can last a decade or more.
If you have a really good pair of shoes, invest in a shoe tree to help them keep their shape.
If your shoes have holes, rips, or irreparable scuffs, don't wear them.
Personal style is expressed through your shoes just as much as through your clothing style. If you are walking around in a pair of dirty old hikers, don't expect to be drawing many glances from the uptown girls and don't expect to ace that interview. Take the time to learn just a little about shoes to take your style factor up a notch - or two!
